Monday, December 31, 2007

New (Zealand, Year, House)


We've moved! Since our University-owned house wasn't going to be available past February, we've been looking for an alternative. This house is cheaper ($300/wk vs. $495/wk) but we have to deal with phone and electricity connections/bills ourselves. Its further from campus (walking takes 25min vs. 8min) and smaller (approx. 1000 sqft vs. 1500 sqft), but newer and not on a busy street and we can get broadband at home (priced per megabyte). Like most houses it has lots of single pane windows, no window screens, no insulation and only a night-store heater. Weather has been warming up, and the lack of mosquitoes means that we open windows and doors during the day.

It belongs to a nice retired man who is moving in with his new wife. He split his original lot, and built this house in his former backyard. The house is immaculate and furnished for retirement with velour upholstered furniture with doilies and ottomans. When Karen and I sit in our matching chairs in the evening, especially over the holidays, it feels like we've fast forwarded twenty years into our retirement home. Of course Abby happily shatters that illusion as she scooters by the window.

Some holiday traditions have changed, no football or really any news about U.S. sports. Cricket, Black Caps vs. Bangladesh, has been the big news here. One of our New Year's resolutions is to figure out cricket (we're punting on rugby).

I guess it's just a guy thing, but I find that I'm interested in the different kinds of cars available here. NZ, like the rest of the world, has much smaller and fuel efficient cars many with diesel options. Pickups (called Utes) are rare and almost every car has a trailer hitch. You see plenty of small sedans pulling boats and campers, which also must weigh less here. You do see the 4WD sport utility trend here. Like the many U.S. SUVs that never leave the highway with extra off road grills, etc.; the most common macho accessory here seems to be the addition of a "snorkel" so that you can ford rivers on your way to work.

If you're interested, here's some links to NZ car options:
Holden (GM, check out the VE ute)
Nissan
Toyota
Mitsubishi (check out the i-car)
Ford (check out the Falcon ute)
Honda (check out the Odyssey)

We're going to a movie and having some champagne for New Years tonight. We hope everyone has a safe and happy new year. Cheers, Bob

Tuesday, December 25, 2007

Merry Christmas

We returned from our tour of the south island on Christmas Eve. Our tree and home decorations were loaned to us by Jeanette, who has been our guardian angel since the day she met us at our house on the first day. Karen crocheted some nice ornaments and Lily made several beadwork ornaments to help personalize the tree. Check out the photo link to see the festive Christmas decorations.

Days are very long with sunrise at 5:50AM and sunset at 9:15PM. So we went to bed exhausted from our trip at 9:30 under blue skies. Santa arrived and brought a Sylvanian family dollhouse with several animal families and accessories for Abby (see pictures). Abby and Lily had fun furnishing the house and being amazed by the details. For example the vacuum cleaner, which is about 1.5 inches long, has the normal floor sweeper attachment which can be replaced with an upholstery nozzle if needed. Lily got a jade necklace and Cadbury earrings from the chocolate factory. Karen got an Aussie-style hiking hat and I got 3 hiking poles, which I’ll share with Karen and Abby since I can’t figure out a way to look cool and use 3 hiking poles at one time. We miss being close to family this year, but we’re happy to have Lily here and we feel lucky to be on this great adventure. I hope everyone has a wonderful holiday back home. Cheers, Bob

South Island Tour



We spent the 5 days before Christmas touring the south island. Our first stop was Lake Pukaki on our way to Queenstown. We were lucky to get a view of Mt. Cook (NZ’s highest peak) down the lake (see picture). We then drove on to Queenstown, which is probably the adventure tourism capital of the world. They invented bungy jumping here and the town is filled with the normal tourist stuff plus bookings for riding America’s Cup yachts, steamships, jet boats, planes, helicopters, parasails (riding a parachute behind a boat), paragliders (riding a parachute off a mountain with a pilot), gondolas, luge (roll down a concrete path on a wheeled sled), and various other ways to spend large sums of money to scare yourself in a beautiful setting.

While the town itself certainly deserves its tourist reputation, the scenery is so expansive and awe inspiring, that just looking up at the Remarkables (Dimrill Dale in the Lord of the Rings) or out across Lake Wakatipu reminds you why Queenstown is really special. Of course, we think bungy jumping and paragliding are special too. Lily bungy jumped off of Kawarau bridge (see film) repeating her Uncle Mike’s feat during bungy jumping’s first year.




Later, Karen parasailed off of the mountain peak and over the lake with her new friend “Mike”. While bungy jumping seems to be of interest to both men and women, the paragliding queue was dominated by women. There may be some deep psychological reason that women are drawn to paragliding, but I think that they are less intimidated by having a 20 something male adventure guide strapped doggy style to their posterior than most men are.


After two nights in Queenstown, we drove to Te Anau (Tee-ann-ow) as the staging area for our Milford Sound trip the next day. We left Te Anau at 6 AM to catch our 9AM boat tour. It was beautiful beyond description. Words or photos simply don’t do it justice, but you can see our photos at the FLKR link.

After our boat trip we drove across the island to Dunedin and stayed at a downtown hotel for a change. We had a truly urban experience with dinner at a sidewalk cafĂ© and a morning tour of the Cadbury chocolate factory on Christmas Eve. The attraction of touring the chocolate factory should be self evident, but it turned out to be one of those scenes where you end up being sympathetic to the poor person assigned the task of making a factory tour an “attraction”. For example, being asked to surrender your cameras and phones before the tour, gives you the early impression that you are about to see some secret special thing. Anticipation continues to build as the tour guide points to the storage silo across the lot and states that she can’t reveal what the silo contains since it’s the highlight of the tour. Twenty minutes later when you are standing in front of the third wall display that uses big arrows to show how cocoa, milk, and sugar are combined to make chocolate, you understand that they took your camera not to protect trade secrets, but to keep people from Googling lame factory tours, and seeing your photos.

But in the back of your mind, you’re thinking about the silo. After walking up the spiral stair case inside the silo you finally reach the top. The lights are turned down low and a single spotlight shines on a large valve about 20 feet above your head. Kids are moved to the front so that they can see the upcoming event. A button is pushed and a large stream of chocolate comes out of the valve and pours down the center of the silo through a series of buckets. While I’ve never been attracted to chocolate fountains as a gift idea, I always assumed that the attraction was something along the fondue line, where the objective was to think of something novel to stick in the flowing chocolate and then eat it. After seeing the “largest known chocolate waterfall in the southern hemisphere”, I guess there must be something more that attracts folks to flowing chocolate. Since you can’t take photos at the Cadbury factory, the only way to meet this need at home is to buy your own chocolate fountain. It’s another one of those things where you wish you could have been at the meeting where someone suggested “why don’t we dump a ton of chocolate down a silo”, so that you could have heard what the bad ideas were.

Sunday, December 16, 2007

Lily's Here

Lily flew in last Thursday, dealing with the Charleston, Atlanta, Los Angeles, Auckland, Christchurch connections like a pro. Her first observations might be influenced by her lack of sleep however. Lily oberved that; "everyone here limps", and that "everything sounds the same" - based on the strange but similar noises that eminate from our washing machine and car. We'll try to get her to expound further on the blog. Of course it was rainy and cold her first few days, but we've had a beautiful weekend. We posted a few more photos of Lily's trip to Sumner Beach, Birdlings Flat, and Akaroa. Plus a bonus photo of decorating our Christmas tree. Cheers, Bob

Wednesday, December 12, 2007

Kelp in Kaikoura

This video shows Bull Kelp around Kaikoura moving in the tidal surge. Weird but impressive.

Tuesday, December 11, 2007

The Cost of Mystery Meat and Other Things


We’ve had to make several adjustments while we are here; some mental, some physical, and some financial. Usually they are related. Overall life here is more expensive than we planned. Sometimes it’s hard to tell if it’s just sticker shock and maybe after you do the exchange rate conversion and remember that all prices include taxes (around 12%), it isn’t always so bad. Our timing for exchange rates could have been better, the graph shows $US to $NZ. Low points are good for us and you can see that lately the NZ has almost been at record high levels relative to the dollar.

Since NZ imports a lot of stuff, this is good for them, but it exports a lot of stuff too and the wine industry for example is hurting. When we transfer $US to our bank account here, what shows up in our account here depends on that day’s exchange rate (and fees). The first time we transferred US$5000 we got NZ$6505, then next time we got NZ$6554. So 1 NZ$ costs us about $US.77 depending on the day. This means that when we go shopping we should discount the price we see by 23% to get our $US cost.

Gas is about US$5/gal. Some things we are used to are hard to find and expensive. For example tortillas (to make burritos) cost about NZ$1.20 each, and bagels about NZ$1.30 each. When you apply our exchange rate, that’s about US$.92 and US$1.00 each. Looking online at the Lowe’s Food Store in Holly Springs I can buy 5 bagels for US$1.79 or US$.36 each. I can get tortillas 10 for US$1.55 or US$.15 each. We’ve tried to adjust our eating habits. Of course we’re used to eating burritos as a way to save money. The Mexican food section is really small with only the “Old El Paso” Brand. I read the refried bean label and found out they are bulk shipped to Australia and then repackaged. That’s one freighter that I don’t want to hit a reef. Imagine an Exxon Valdez cleanup of refried beans.

The Asian food section, however, is bigger than home. We’ve been having Pad Thai and Green Curry (beef or chicken). We’re using stir frying as a way to make cheap meat edible. Comparing meat prices, lamb loin chips are US$6.99/lb in NZ, US$11.99/lb in the US. Ground beef is US$3.44/lb in NZ, US$2.99/lb in the US. Boneless chicken thighs are US$6.63/lb in NZ, US$2.79/lb in the US. Meat prices made us think about going more vegetarian, but going vegetarian in a country where potatoes, cabbage, and broccoli take up most of the produce section isn’t going to happen.

The lamb meat section is about the same size as the chicken, pork and beef sections of the grocery store. Given that they have 40 million sheep in this country (about the size of Colorado) and we haven’t seen a chicken or pig farm, it’s sort of surprising. We’ve had rack of lamb. Though it makes perfect sense when you think about it, it was sort of surprising to find out that “lamb” is really baby sheep, so these are little pieces of meat with tiny little ribs sticking up. I roasted the lamb and I’m ashamed to say that it was pretty good.

Karen even thought it was OK and she’s very susceptible to not being able to eat food if she can visualize it as an animal. Chicken nuggets in the shape of stars are OK, in the shape of chickens not OK. This means for example if we get a fish filet from the local “fish and chips” and the filet just happens to come out of the fryer in the shape of a fish, I’ll try to break it in half before Karen sees it. I can also use this power for evil, like the time we went to one of Ted Turner’s restaurants that serves buffalo and beef. Karen wanted a hamburger made of beef (you have to tell them this, or you get buffalo). While we were waiting for the order, I mentioned that I wasn’t sure that the waitress heard her specify beef. Karen couldn’t make herself even try the burger to guess which one it was, so I got two burgers that day. I wasn’t sure what it was either, but this doesn’t seem to bother me as much.

To try to save money I look for bargains. For example one day I saw minced (ground) beef patties a good deal cheaper that minced beef. So I bought them and some hamburger buns (buns/bagels are not pre-split). When we had them that night, it tasted weird. I then looked at the ingredients and meat was the first of several ingredients. The fillers and spices gave the meat a sort of vinegary taste. By the way, food labels here are not nearly as informative as in the states.

Despite this experience, I noticed that pre-made meat loaf was also a lot cheaper than minced beef and tried it. It looked nice, was covered in grated cheese with little tomato slices. It had no cooking directions and the ingredient list was ominous. All it said was "ingredient list available from butchery". Anyway, after cooking it for 60 minutes at 180 degrees C (350 f), it looked great. Until I cut it that is. When I first saw the pink, I thought I had undercooked it. But as it turns out, this thing started pink and I think would stay pink even if you set it on fire (see picture). And it did taste sort of flammable with that same vinegary taste and mysterious little red flecks.

We ate about half of it and the next day we were confronted with mystery meat loaf leftovers. We don’t discard leftovers as casually as we used to. Karen and I were having lunch at home and decided to try mystery meat loaf Panini. So I used my George Forearm Grill (this is where you put the Panini in one frying pan, and squish it with another frying pan using your forearm to exert just the right amount of pressure). It turns out this was pretty good. I think it works this way for me; I have a mental picture (looks, smell, taste) of what meat loaf is supposed to be like. I don’t really have one for Panini. With the mystery meat hidden and squished in a Panini roll, my mind was free to consume without question.

This expectation thing affects dairy and beef products the most. My sense is that the milk, cheese, and beef have more of a grassy taste here. I imagine it’s healthier than the feedlot steroid/hormone enhanced stuff I’m used to. Unfortunately, it’s not what I’m used to so I don’t drink as much milk here. That’s OK, it costs more (US$5.99/gal vs. US$3.99/gal) and the biggest size you can buy is 2 liters. We used to buy 2 gallons at a time, but now 2 liters lasts a week. This grassy smell is also in the air. Christchurch is a pretty big city in the middle of a large farming region. So if the wind is right it all smells like pasture or pasture animals. It’s a million times better than being down wind of a pig farm in NC, but still gets your attention.

Ice cream and yogurt are big. The big ice cream company is Tip Top, and one of their best sellers is the Jelly Tip Trumpet which is advertised on TV by a guy in a Speedo. Ice cream flavors are different; I had an orange chocolate chip scoop the other day. Potato chips come in some fun flavors too, like chicken or lamb. Beer costs about the same and seems to be good. Cheap wine here is worse than cheap wine at home.

Actually the whole grocery store experience is different. Most malls have a grocery store. The grocery store only opens to the inside of the mall, so after buying your groceries, you’re pushing your trolley down the mall to get to the parking lot. Our local mall (Riccarton) is the second biggest in NZ, it would be about fourth biggest in the Raleigh area. The mall includes a Kmart and a Border’s books. There’s an Office Depot, but most of the big box stores are local. We bought a really small chilly bin (ice chest) for NZ$55 at “The Warehouse”. There are lots of new jingles rolling around in our heads and Abby is very good at singing the appropriate jingle as we pass stores in the car.

Cheers,
Bob

Friday, December 7, 2007

It's not the cold, it's the lack of heat

Several of you have heard me whine about how cold it is here. But it's not the outside temperature that is so cold, it's the INSIDE temperature. Our house has 3 teeny wall heaters, no insulation and single glazed windows. It is not a new house, but it's not old either. Central heat and air are considered luxuries. Most Kiwis are accustomed to having frost on the inside of their windows all winter.

When we started looking for a new house, we were astonished by the number of homes that had ONLY WOOD HEAT. They advertise a fireplace as a "log burner". One house we looked at had a "nightstore heater", which we had heard of elsewhere. So, of course, we googled it. Turns out, its just an electric heater that runs only at night when electricity is cheap (er). Bob also found a site that had done some analyses of the most efficient heating systems for homes of different types in different areas. Of the 10 scenarios across the country, only one left the heat on all the time, and only a few were for insulated homes.

The typical scenario was a family in a 30 year old house with no insulation who heated ONE ROOM in the morning before work and ONE ROOM in the evening. Are these people nuts or what? Electricity is 20c/KWH during the day and 12c/KWH at night. I don't have any idea how this compares, but I think I'll look. Really, living here in the winter sounds more like camping!